Archive Tips: NPS Conserve O Grams Are a Fantastic Free Resource

Archive Tips: NPS Conserve O Grams are a Fantastic Free Resource

Conserve O Gram

Conserve O Grams offer easy to use step-by-step information to care for your collections.
Conserve O Grams offer easy to use step-by-step information to care for your collections.

 

Caring for a private collection of historical material can be overwhelming, especially if you have not had museum training or do not have an archivist background. Things are much better this day and age though, because there are a number of resources available on the internet that can help you. Today, I’m highlighting one of the most prolific ones, the Conserve O Grams put out by the National Park Service.

The National Park Service has been releasing Conserve O Grams for decades, with the earliest dated issues on the website going back to 1993. According to their website, “The National Park Service Conserve O Grams are short, focused technical leaflets that provide practical and easy-to-use guidance on the care of museum collections. The leaflets are geared towards staff responsible for collections care and preservation. They cover procedures, techniques, and materials used in collections management, as well as care of different types of collection objects and materials. New topics are added as needed and out-of-date issues are revised or deleted.”

Here is an example of a Conserve O Gram issue. Usually only a few pages in length, a Conserve O Gram gives you short and to the point information in clear and easy to understand form.
Here is an example of a Conserve O Gram issue. Usually only a few pages in length, a Conserve O Gram gives you short and to the point information in clear and easy to understand form.

Covering over 186 topics ranging from collection preservation of a variety of object types, to fire safety, pest control, and disaster responses, Conserve O Grams provide a wealth of information regularly used by museum professionals. While some topics may not apply to private collectors, all aspects of collections care and disaster responses do.

How many of you with archive collections have ever run across a rusty paperclip or straight pin holding documents together? Or found a rotten rubber band stuck to an ambrotype case (that’s a future Angry Archivist post)? This Conserve O Gram issue from July 1993 covers all those things and offers suggestions on removing them, what tools to use (and not use), and also councils you on why some fasteners (such as historic seals) should remain. You can see it here: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/museums/upload/19-05_508.pdf

How many of you know the proper humidity level for storing glass plate negatives and ambrotypes? How many of you have found ambrotypes with a flaking black varnish on the back? If you store these images with a relative humidity level of less than 30% those antique emulsions and varnishes will start to corrode and flake off. Learn about how to handle different types of photographs here: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/museums/upload/14-05_508.pdf

As collectors, one thing we love to do is show off our collection. There’s certainly no shame in that, and it’s really no different than putting on a museum exhibit in your own home. However, like a museum, it’s important to follow archival guidelines when displaying our treasure troves. This particular Conserve O Gram covers putting paper on exhibit and the proper mounting techniques. One very important thing to consider is that paper expands and contracts based on humidity. Therefore, it needs to be mounted in something that allows it to “breathe.” I’ve seen so many CDVs encased in hard plastic that does no favors whatsoever for the documents within them. “Once mounted, the document, art work, or photograph does not touch the framing glass or plastic, but is held apart from it by a window mat or spacer.” You may not wish to mount your documents or photographs as described in this particular Conserve O Gram, but the information contained within it on why you should not wedge something into hard plastic is very useful. You can find this issue here: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/museums/upload/13-04_508.pdf

When I took my first collections management class in college many years ago, I was first introduced to Conserve O Grams. I’ve referenced them countless times over the course of my career as a museum director and archivist, and I continue to reference them both professionally and personally as I maintain a large archive of documents at my home. I encourage any collector no matter how long you’ve been collecting to please comb through the various topics covered with Conserve O Grams and to consult them first with any archival questions you may have before asking Facebook groups for their input. All too often, those groups are full of well-meaning folks who want to help, but they are typically not professionally trained. I’ve got a lengthy list of stories of bad advice and bad care methods I’ve encountered over the years.  The more recent ones I’m chronicling on the “Angry Archivist” posts on this site.

You can view all of the National Park Service Conserve O Grams here: https://www.nps.gov/subjects/museums/conserve-o-grams.htm

I hope you find them as helpful as I have over the years, and I hope they are old news for many of you because that means you’re already using them! Which is awesome!

3 Simple Tips to Protect Your Archival Collection

Sometimes following museum best practices with your collection can seem overwhelming. Here are 3 simple tips to protect your archival collection that you can do quickly, easily, and affordably.

Use Archival Folders

These Pendaflex folders from Staples are acid-free and would be an easy option for archival storage. They can be found here.

If you’ve gotten into collecting Civil War history, you’re likely to start winding up with a lot of paper. This ephemera could be CDVs, military documents, old newspaper articles, etc. Some of these may end up on display somewhere in your home, but if they are not, they need to be stored. It may be tempting to just stick them in a box for safekeeping, but that is not the best idea.

Placing these historic documents in archival folders is a great cost-effective option because it allows you to protect the documents while also keeping them organized. Archival folders are becoming much easier to find nowadays. Instead of ordering them from museum supply companies, you can often find them at your local Walmart or Staples store. They tend to cost a bit more, but in the long run they are worth it. Non-archival materials will damage your documents over time. They tend to be acidic, which means they will turn papers yellow and eventually crumble them away.

We’ve all seen an old, yellow crumbly newspaper, right? The reason that the newspaper is yellow and crumbly is because it was printed on very acidic paper. Dime store paperbacks from the 1950s and 1960s are often yellowed as well for the same reason. Acidic paper is cheaper and is often used by printers when longevity is not a priority. Now, have you seen a paper turn yellow because it was stored next to a newspaper? I’ve seen this happen countless times in shoe boxes of old papers that folks tend to keep. The newspaper clippings are acidic and so any paper they come into contact with is also yellowed and damaged. That is exactly why we want to use archival folders to store our documents. We don’t want them to turn yellow because they were stored inside an acidic folder.

Use Acid Free Paper

Easy to find acid free paper for your archival collection
This paper is extremely low cost and available locally in Walmart stores. It is acid free and suitable for archival purposes. This paper is a great low cost option for interleaving. It can be found here.

Now that you’ve got some archival folders, you’ll want to get a ream or two of acid free paper. You can store multiple documents in the same folder, but you’ll want to separate them with acid free paper. Use the paper as interleaving between the documents.

Let’s say you have 5 papers that all relate to the same individual and you would like to store them in a folder together. You can store the first document in the folder, then a sheet of acid free paper, the next document, a sheet of acid free paper, and so on, until you’ve placed them all in the folder. This ensures that the papers are not rubbing against each other and transferring ink or dirt, and they are also protected from any potential acid transfer. Now, this is something that you will need to check on. If you have a folder full of newspaper articles, that acid in those newspapers may leach through the interleaving eventually, so you may need to replace it periodically.

Acid free paper can also often be found locally very easily at any office store or big box store.

Use Archival Photo Sleeves

These are archival products that I really can’t live without. I use these for photos and also for any important documents. These sleeves give paper artifacts and an extra layer of protection. For reference, I prefer the side-locking sleeves that I’ve mentioned in previous posts, which can be purchased here.

Here is an example of one of those hard plastic sleeves. Notice how this is only a narrow opening available to slide media in and out and how it takes a great deal of pressure to open. Compare that to a sleeve that lays completely flat, opens up for your to place your document inside and then folds back over. These may have value for dealers who have people sifting and sorting through their wares on a regular basis, but these have no place in a private collection for long term storage of fragile documents.

I have had CDVs shipped to me in rigid plastic folders that I CANNOT STAND. I’ve also seen a lot of collectors keep their CDVs in these same hard plastic holders that are only open on the top. I hate these for several reasons:

  1. You have no idea if they are archival or not. Just because an antique dealer shipped you a photo in it, does not imply that it is safe to continue to store your item in it.
  2. They are rigid and the document is held inside by force. This is not a good way to store archives. You don’t want pressure on the document because that harms it over time. Think of any video you have ever seen of an archive or museum collections room—are ANY of the artifacts stored in things that squish them, press down hard on them, or force them in any way? No.
  3. Because they are so rigid and only open on one side, it is much more difficult to remove the document from them and also difficult to place them back inside. Yes, we all have our little tricks to pop them open a certain way, use a thumb to press down and slide them out, etc. Again, where have you ever seen anything like that done in a museum collection? It’s not. Typically, these cards are used to store CDVs, although I have seen them used with tintypes, which is a whole other issue…CDVs are basically REALLY old cardstock with an image printed on it. It should be handled delicately because each time you remove it and put it back, you are damaging it. Period. No matter how good you think you are at getting them in and out. The very fact that you have to grab the image with your thumb to pull it out, damaging it. Period images should be handled by the edges just like how you’d handle an “old fashioned” CD. Remember how sacrilege it was to get fingerprints on a CD? Think of that when you’re handling those CDVs and tintypes. You can’t handle them by the edges and use those rigid plastic holders that are only open on the top. For that reason alone, they are not good for these collections. Not to mention rubbing on the images, damaging the prints, etc.

If some of you would like to keep your images in “pockets” I would recommend looking into archival sleeves that are designed to hold images safely in binders, or even small archival books designed to hold images. I use these notebooks, place the images on the paper using archival photo corners, and they are safe inside the book without any pressure on them, and they can easily be removed if I need to rescan them for any reason.

Bonus Tip

Always, always, always scan and digitize your collection! If you don’t have one, invest in a simple scanner that can scan at least 600 dpi and scan all your photographs at that resolution to start. Documents can be scanned at 300 dpi and be easily read and enlarged clearly. Once you have your collection digitized there is no reason to be pulling old photos in and out of sleeves, documents in and out of folders, etc. You can easily look at them digitally and ensure that their condition is not degrading as you keep handling them. No matter how careful you are, every time a document is handled, its condition degrades. That’s a simple archival fact. So, the more we can minimize that, the better! And as an extra tip, please consider setting up a digital catalog system like I discussed in a blog post a few weeks ago here! All of these tips will go a long way to protect your archival collection!

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